Veneers Online are one of the UK's leading suppliers of iron on wood edging and melamine edging, iron on wood veneer sheets, stair stringer veneer, screw hole caps and wax kits for surface and furniture repair. We are authorised distributors for Konig products. We supply to both the trade and retail sectors. We have recently added ABS and PVC edgings to our range. We can supply edging to match most Egger and Kronospan boards on request.
Control in hand selecting your raw material yourself, in person. Control over the sequence matching of your sheets throughout your project. Control over the lamination process, which inherently gives you more control over your overall cost.
Trim with the shimmed side first. Since less veneer is being removed with this side of the trimmer, the likelihood of runaway splits is greatly reduced. Start at one end and squeeze the trimmer until the shims are against the plywood. Then press down and slide the trimmer along the edge. Thin strips of veneer will peel away from both edges.
These real wood veneer sheets are composed of premium sliced hardwoods that are spliced along the edges to make the full width; splicing is also done in a book matched pattern that's attractive and helps hide the splicing seam. The sheets use full-length slices so there are no splices to make the length. The 10 mil (10 thousandths) thickness paper backing allows the sheet to bend, flex, and work with curves and shapes without splitting. Apply paper back veneers with contact adhesive to make panels of large projects: conference tables, desks, doors, cabinet doors, coffee tables, etc.
In rotary cutting, the wood log is mounted centrally in the lathe and turned against a knife, as if unwinding a roll of paper. A multi-patterned wood grain marking is produced with this method. Rotary cut veneer sheets can be sufficiently wide to provide full sheet faces (one piece).
Non-Adhesive Wood Back Veneer is a 2-ply veneer. The veneer face is the wood species specified by the customer, and the back is a Luan veneer that helps balance the sheet. The backing is applied to the veneer in a cross grain direction resulting in a flatter more stable product. This refacing material is suitable for face frame applications, as well as covering larger surfaces such as the side of a cabinet.
Our real wood veneers are pre-glued, crafted to be affixed to a flat, smooth, clean and dry wood (or wood based) surface using a household iron. All wood veneers are supplied in an unfinished state, ready to be treated with the finish of your choice. Take care to always follow manufacturer's instructions when applying different finishes. Available in a range of hardwood species to choose from, including Oak, Ash, Beech and Black Walnut.
Due to their natural wood construction, veneers may change colour in light - particularly in their unfinished state. For this reason we do not provide samples of veneers because there is a risk that a sample, after being in prolonged circulation, may be mistaken as a representation of how a brand new piece will appear from our stock, while some of the figures on the sample will have faded considerably.
All our timbers are cut to size and due to the quantity of timbers and variations we have we do not have standard stock sizes as we buy in by packs of varying widths and lengths. The sheets we stock are 1220mm wide by 2440mm length, apart from the 1.5mm thick Russian Birch Plywood which is 1525mm wide by 1525mm length. We can source larger sheets; however, we will find a price from our suppliers and we will charge you for the full sheet as it a non-stock item. We will send you any offcuts that are left over after we have cut this sheet.
Working with veneer is simpler than you might think, provided you clamp it down using a vacuum press. To walk you through the process, we turned to professional furnituremaker Matt Seiler, right, who often uses veneer in his work (mswoodcraft.com).
Matt says working with veneer provides several benefits: "It allows you to change grain direction on your dress face, and even mix species on the same or different faces in ways that would be difficult or out of the question with solid wood. Find veneer at a hardwoods or woodworking store, or online, in hundreds of species. The color and grain palette is as wide as your imagination and ever-changing."
Contact cement may be the adhesive of choice when working with plastic laminates, but Matt warns against it for wood-on-wood bonds: "Under veneer, contact cement dries out, and edges and corners will easily pull up and break off."
Veneer needs a smooth surface, called a substrate, to support it. MDF makes an excellent substrate for panels such as doors, drawer fronts, and tabletops. For panels where you'll need to mill joinery, choose maple or birch plywood. But Matt says to avoid oak plywood: "The pronounced grain pattern will telegraph through your veneer after pressing."
If you cover a panel smaller than 24×24" with a single piece of veneer, yellow woodworking glue works well. For larger panels, or those with seams, Matt uses a one-part cold-press veneer glue [Supplies on Demand, below], "because its longer open time provides more time to work, and its thicker viscosity reduces squeeze-out through the seams." Some manufacturers offer light-, medium-, and dark-colored varieties that help any glue line blend better with the veneer.
Bring warmth and character to your project with natural wood veneer surfaces. Masonite Architectural offers a wide variety of domestic and exotic species, cuts, matches and grades to meet any need.View our portfolio of standard surface species and stains.
Particleboard is made from ground wood chips bonded with adhesive. Particleboard cores are traditionally lower density and popular in a multitude of flush door applications. Fire-rated options for particleboard cores include non-rated and 20-minute options.
For all substrates Many substrates require a quick scuff sanding with 60 or 80 grit sand paper. This is especially true for MDF, MDO, and some types of plywood. The substrate surface must be porous for most water-based adhesives to bond.
For raw wood veneer Most raw wood veneers do not need any special preparation. The two most notorious exceptions are oily exotic species and maple. Some of the oily exotics will adhere better if wiped with naphtha just before application of the veneer to the substrate. For maple, it's a good idea to scuff sand the back of the veneer with 60 or 80 grit sandpaper to get a proper bond.
Always apply glue to the substrate material only. Don't apply glue to the veneer. The easiest way to apply most water-based veneer adhesives is with a simple foam rubber glue roller. These rollers are re-usable and inexpensive. You can get them at VeneerSupplies.com to help support our website and keep it free of annoying advertisements.
The key is to apply veneer glue evenly and the rule of thumb is that the surface of the substrate should look evenly painted with veneer glue. It should not be dripping wet. A good test is to place a pencil mark on the substrate and apply the glue. If you can see the slightly obscure pencil mark on the substrate through the wet adhesive, then you likely have the right amount of glue.
Bonus Tip: Veneer can have a tendency to curl up when it is placed on the wet glue layer on the substrate. Do not spray the face side of the veneer with water to counteract the curling. The addition of water to the veneer causes excessive expansion of the wood cells which can cause the veneer to split later in the day as the moisture evaporates from the saturated wood cells.
Don't leave the veneered panel in the press longer than the glue specifies because some veneer adhesives can get "globby" which then causes ripples and bubbles to form in the veneer. Additionally, panels left in the press for too long can develop patches of mold. I've seen cherry and maple develop mold with less than 6 hours of clamping time.
Instead of cutting the substrate to the exact size, I often prefer to cut my substrate panels one-half inch larger on each side and then apply a veneer that is a half inch smaller (on all sides) than the substrate. I typically line up one edge of the veneer with one edge of the substrate so that the veneer is inside the edge of the substrate by an eighth of an inch. Then I use blue painter's tape to hold it in place. Once the panel has cured, I use my table saw, with a plywood cross cutting blade, to do the final cutting of the panel. I start by cutting the side opposite from where I lined up the edge of the veneer slightly off the edge of the substrate. Then I go back to the other side and trim the panel to its final side.
Do yourself a favor and make a couple of test panels using a softwood veneer like walnut or redwood and a hardwood veneer like maple or Karelian birch burl. These panels don't have to be large. Even an 8" x 10" sample works fine. Apply the glue to the substrate, press the panel, and let it cure.
With a little elbow grease, the veneer came off (one splinter at a time), and then there was a lot of sanding involved to cut down that chunky adhesive. But in some cases this would be less work than actually replacing the wood. It may also help to soak the wood with a wet towel for awhile to loosen up the adhesive.
Questions? Comments? Have you had any luck removing veneer using a different method? Are you doing any furniture-updating of your own this weekend? Have you tried our tutorial on making new wood look old?
Thanks for pointing out that the veneer type of wood furniture is real wood, so it can be stained and varnished again. I guess I will be choosing this type of material for our kitchen cabinets so that we can restore it easily over time. We just needed to have custom cabinets produced for our kitchen because there are odd spaces in that room which can be filled in by ready-made furniture.
So I just bought a vanity that says it is made of MDF and hardwood veneers- -Decorators-Collection-Brexley-37-in-Vanity-in-Warm-Chestnut-with-Marble-Vanity-Top-in-Beige-BXCNVT3622D/204074344?MERCH=REC-_-NavPLPHorizontal1_rr-_-NA-_-204074344-_-N this exact vanity. I want to paint it blue but being it was over $500 I want to be sure I dont mess it up. Would you recommend sanding this piece first or just priming and then painting? I have been getting mixed reviews from home depot/ lowes paint representatives on how to accomplish this!Thanks! 781b155fdc